Tuscany has many charms. It has charming vistas, charming hilltop towns, even charming cobbles. It has great wines and fine bike riding. But some of its most modest charms are the most appreciated by repeat visitors. Returning to Tuscany for some riding is always a treat. But staying at Zi Martino, just below the hilltop town of Castagneto Carducci, and taking relaxed local walks on empty back roads and engaging in minor adventures, such as a market day visit to Donoratico, are not merely extras, but an essential part of the experience.  And as always, Tuscany’s calming trees and emotional skies are endlessly entertaining. And charming, of course. 

Arriving by train, passing through Campiglia before changing to a train to Donoratico. Rain bounces off Zi’s roof in a cloudburst. Under clear skies, Zi’s pool is visually bracing. But eleven inches of rain flooded the roads and some houses after we left. 

IMG_9615 IMG_9623 IMG_9694-2 IMG_9699 IMG_9723

Market day in Donoratico. 

IMG_9873 IMG_9879-2 IMG_9925-2 IMG_9863-2 IMG_0016 IMG_9955 IMG_9994

Italy’s trees are reassuringly calm (in good weather). Quiet local lanes with little traffic offer relaxing walks. Above the fields and roads is Castagneto Carducci, the town named for poet Giosuè Carducci.
 

IMG_0104 IMG_0109-3

IMG_0134-2 IMG_0143 IMG_0133
IMG_0130 IMG_0149 IMG_0151 IMG_0155-2 IMG_0180 IMG_0186 IMG_0188 IMG_0231-2 IMG_0119 IMG_0227-2 IMG_0218-2 IMG_0223 IMG_0254-2 untitled-0234IMG_0234-2 untitled-0238IMG_0238-2 untitled-0268IMG_0268-2

And not far away by bicycle is Suvereto, favored stop for refreshment and coffee. 

IMG_9774 untitled-9747IMG_9747-2