The Tour de France ends tomorrow, July 23, 2017, with its final laps on the Champs Elysees and the usual mad, desperate sprint over the cobbles for the finish line.  We normally watch on TV, but in 2013 - the 100th Anniversary of the Tour - we flew to Paris to watch Stage 21, the last day.  From where we stood - by the balustrade beside L'Orangerie, near the Place de la Concorde - we could see the roofs of the vehicle caravan as it first entered the heart of Paris, on the opposite (Left) bank of the Seine.  We could only see the roofs as they kept pace with the riders below at improbable speeds before the peleton and support cars crossed the Seine and began repeat circuits around the Place de la Concorde, up the Champs, around the Arc de Triomphe, back down the Champs, and eventually flashing past our spot, repeatedly and rapidly.  It was the first twilight finish, and very striking.  We had spent (and still spend) countless hours watching the Tour, from the days when Greg Lemond first challenged, and our interest had increased from riding with Andy Hampsten (twice fourth in the Tour, once Best Young Rider, and Giro d'Italia winner) in Italy, France, and Corsica.  The Tour offers high drama, great racing, and fantastic scenery.  Apart from the racing, watching the French countryside unfold is heartbreakingly moving.  Today's stage (the Marseille time trial) convinced us we have to visit that part of France, as well.

Seeing the Tour live is breathtaking.  The spectacle and speeds are boggling.  The peleton enters Paris at 32 mph or more. After the "casual" ceremonial lap escorting the yellow jersey (Froome) at a mere 28 mph, It cruises through the closing laps at 30-32 mph.  A few solo riders try to break away, and for a few laps average 35 mph, alone in the wind.  The sprinters, shoulder-to-shoulder, will hit 45 mph in the final dash.  And this isn't a simple, flat, smooth city circuit.  The Champs is cobbled with big, lumpy stones, and it rises at about 4-5% as riders aim for the Arc, improbably distant up the bumpy avenue.  The riders, including the pack and any solo artists, descend at high speed from the Arc over the same cobbles.  

These are a few of the Stage 21 images from 2013.  Chris Froome won the Tour that year.  We'll see shortly whether he wins it again in 2017.  Given the time trial results, he will win unless he falls off.

Peloton, lead by Team Sky, begins the first circuit.

The peleton, with the Sky team escorting Chris Froome on a ceremonial lap, appears for the first time, as the late afternoon sun is golden beside the Seine.

Earlier in the day, gendarmes guard the Arc and take photos.  No traffic around the Arc!

Armee de l'Air flybyArmee de l'Air flyby

Armee de l'Air flyby

Froome, in yellow, following his Sky teammates.

Froome rolls through, at 35 miles per hourFroome rolls through, at 35 miles per hour

Characteristic Froome cycling posture: appearing to look down, at his computer

This was the first twilight finish in Paris.

Straggler

Straggler, off the back

Calling for help from a team car

Break, with David Millar chasing

A breakaway, after the ceremonial lap, with David Millar trying to catch

The pack

Froome surrounded in traffic; you wouldn't want to ride in such close quarters at these speeds.

Millar catches the break

David Millar catches up.

And then launches a solo attack, leading for two circuits before being caught. Millar presses on Desperate solo by David Millar Vintage Millar, but fading

Vintage Millar:  a big gamble, but worth the risk

Froome in close company

Froome stays safe at 32 mph as dusk arrives.

Place de la Concorde screen shows Team Sky riders crossing the finish together

The Sky team, arm-in-arm, crosses the finish line, as seen on the big screen in the Place de la Concorde.  Froome, in yellow, is in the center.

Moon over the D'Orsay on the walk back to Ali's apartment.

Walking home post race; a moonlit Musee D'Orsay sits elegantly beside the Seine.