Getting to Auke Bay from Anchorage with a car full of everything potentially needed in the next three months or, indeed, in the years to come, plus a dog, means long hours on the road, many of them spent contemplating yet again Canada's size and calculating distances to the next gas stop, the next meal, and each border crossing. But Haines finally arrives and then it is just a matter of waiting until the AMHS ferry (the M/V LeConte this time) loads and sets out. Then it is, as usual, clear sailing, watching Haines recede, mountains loom, wavelets chop and change color when silty river water and salt water collide in Lynn Canal, as features, lighthouses, islands, reefs, glaciers, birds, gill netters, appear ahead, pass by, and fall astern. Walking the deck means confronting the wind, both that over the bow and that prevailing from the south as the sky thickens. There is the usual close-range deck art, the fascination of watching the bow wake stream past, and some scenic drama in the late afternoon. Despite some patches of blue sky, there is little typical postcard scenery for now. Color is muted, often nearly monotone, the light uncertain. It is usually overcast above, perhaps down to 3 or 4 thousand feet, and clouds mass around any peaks exceeding that level. But on deck and in the observation lounge it is a very satisfying re-entry. Picture postcard scenery is overrated. The honesty of threatening clouds and looming peaks and the purity of some high ice fields are refreshing.
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Not much happens for long stretches, beyond frost heaves and gravel road work. And then a big grizzly appears; another, a mile later. Wrong lens for opportunistic event. EF4A8448
LeConte stack:
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Heavy rains and saturated soil in Haines caused this huge slide to rip away everything, topsoil, trees, houses, and two people, and plunge to the beach line, 800 feet below. The people were never found.
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Haines recedes under blue sky that soon disappears.
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Deck art on the LeÇonte: 131A7156 131A7388 131A7701
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Blue sky is briefly visible near Haines, but most of the voyage is under darker cover. Grays predominate.
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Scanning
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Mountains loom above Lynn Canal, their remaining snow fields lingering into July. Some chill shafts of light brighten distant terrain.
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A rare water-level shaft of sun lights up a stand of spruce.
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Silty river water and Pacific salt water collide.
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Nearing Auke Bay, the light improves but the overcast clouds directly overhead remain dense.
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Throwing the line while mooring in Auke Bay, as recorded on a cell phone: EF4A8499 EF4A8507
After a lifetime of mainly expressing myself with words, my postings here will mainly rely on images. They will speak for themselves to some extent, but I'll usually add a few comments of explanation. I've taken photographs for decades, since the 1950's, inspired in part by my father's photographic skill. Four years of photo assignments and quality darkroom time eventually gave way to decades of casual and family picture-taking. I re-immersed myself when I left film and turned to digital.